Galway is officially my favorite town in Ireland – and no, not just because of the song (go listen to “The Galway Girl” – love it!) but because it is the most fantastic little place. Actually, it’s not really that little considering that my hometown only has 15,000 people and Galway’s population stands at 70,000 – but the point is, it is somewhat quaint, and much moreso than Dublin. It was a fantastic base for exploring what in my opinion (at least so far) is the most beautiful places in Ireland. This weekend was filled with so much good weather and beautiful scenery that its almost unbelieveable my camera didn’t break from the thousands of pictures that were taken. Don’t worry, I narrowed it down to only 40 or so to put up on Facebook, so you don’t have to sift through all of them. Point being, however, this weekend was simply fantastic (except for the part where some guy at the pub threw up nearly on Marissa… but we’ll glide right over that part of the weekend).
After our bed and breakfast experience in Cork, which wasn’t exactly fantastic, Marissa and I opted to stay in a hostel in Galway. Hostels are very common here, and for the budget traveler, B&B’s and hostels are really the only way to go. There are many advantages of hostels: a kitchen that you can use, a hang-out living room type of area, laid back atmosphere, there are always people around, much more conducive to making friends than a hotel, etc. However, there are also several downsides to staying in a hostel: lights in your room that barely work, bathrooms that smell, showers where the water turns off ever 15 seconds and has no temperature adjustment (it was SCALDING hot at times! I never thought I’d say this, but I’d almost rather have had a cold shower), internet that costs 1 euro for 15 minutes, and very loud hallways at night when we’re trying to sleep and our alarm is set for 8am. Nonetheless, our first night in the hostel was good. When we arrived, we went out to dinner at a very traditional Irish restaurant, then headed back to sleep and prepare for the next day.

Irish Countryside
Marissa and I split up the next day, wanting to go on different bus tours, but another Harvard intern in Ireland and I went to the Cliffs of Moher together. I’ve heard really bad things about bus tours, but when you don’t have a car its a really affordable and surprisingly fun way to see the countryside. I did a lot of research into tour companies and it paid off: our tour guide was GREAT, the route we took was phenomenal, and we got to see so much I don’t know how we did it in only 8 hours. The guide was very into telling us about mythical Ireland, which thrives in the West part of the country. We were driving through the wilderness with roads barely even big enough to fit the bus and there were many a time that I thought the bus would lose balance on the edge of the road and tumble down the mountain / hill / cliff – amazing, in my opinion, that this didn’t happen.
One really amazing thing that I’m not going to post a picture of because the photo is severely disappointing compared to what it is like in real life are the “fairy circles” found in the middle of each field. Here, fields are divided up into sections by stone walls – the walls, I’ve learned, are there mostly because there are naturally so many rocks in the field that the farmers had to do something with them, and building walls in between land was a more efficient way than having to carry all of the stones to some far away pile. Also, during the Potato Famine, people built walls all the way up the mountains simply to keep busy and distract themselves from the horror of that time in Irish history. Anyway, the fairy circles were normally a circle of trees, apparently naturally occurring, that appears in the middle of these fields. Farmers are still to this day afraid to cut them down because of the many awful stories that exist about what has happened to those who dare to disturb even one branch of the tree. I know its hard to believe here, but when you’re driving through magical Ireland, with its tales of leprechauns and rainbows and magic, its quite easy to get caught up in these stories.
As we drove through the mountains on these winding roads, I noticed what looked like small stone huts on top of some of the mountains that stood out from the rest of the green scenery. When we got closer and prepared to actually stop at one, our tour guide explained that these are ancient crypts used to bury the dead thousands of years ago in Ireland. They buried the most honored people on top of the mountains, overlooking all of the countryside of beautiful Ireland. The crypt that we stopped at was dated a few years ago by a team of experts at 5,000 years old! I know you heard this from me last summer, but damn, America is like a little infant compared to the rich history that these countries have.

The astounding cliffs of Moher
After seeing countless castles, crypts, stone walls and fairy circles we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher, one of Ireland’s most famous tourist attractions, an honor that should not be taken lightly. These cliffs are at the edge of Western Ireland and tower above the Atlantic ocean at 394 feet. (for all of you nerds out there: The cliffs were the filming location for the 6th Harry Potter movie, when Harry and Dumbledore go to destroy the horcrux in the cave.) For some strange reason, we got the most beautiful day to see them- sun shining, no rain, absolutely perfect warm weather. Avi and I took tons of pictures and hiked around, bypassing the large “DANGER: DO NOT CONTINUE” sign like every other tourist and teetering on the edge of the cliffs with absolutely no railing and a very slippery slope. It’s funny that people just walk past this sign so nonchalantly and there is no guard there to care; its as if the sign is really just put there to prevent the government for being sued when someone is blown off the edge, as happens reportedly over 20 times per year. That would SO not happen in America. On our way back from walking along the dangerous parts of the cliffs, I actually saw some guy slip and fall – thankfully, he fell on his side opposite the cliffs, and when I said to him “thank goodness you fell on your left and not your right!” he gave me a faint smile and looked like he was about to hurl. Maybe not the best time to make a joke.

Definitely not standing too close to the edge!
Friday night we met up with Avi’s friend Kevin, a student at UVA, who hung out with us on Friday night. We ate at another traditional Irish restaurant and then went out to the pubs in Galway. The night ended pretty early after Marissa was nearly thrown up on and we stumbled into an American bar, with people kareoking “Sweet Home Alabama” and a Vermont license plate hanging behind me on the wall. We had an early morning again Saturday, anyway!
Saturday we woke up and caught a bus, then a ferry to the beautiful Aran Islands. It rained on our way there, but by the time we got to the Islands it was sunny and gorgeous and warm. We rented bikes and set off, biking around the 9 mile island and absorbing the peaceful atmosphere. Though the scenery was much like the rest of Ireland, it was so nice to be free on the road with just our bikes than to be on a tour bus. We rode around, had a picnic lunch on the rocks overlooking the ocean, and then stumbled upon a wonderful beach (pictures attached: that beach SO does not look like it belongs in Ireland!) After frolicking in the water for a while, we continued on to an ancient fort, which was pretty cool. Again, there were cliffs and no railing, so we stood on the edge and felt very much like daredevils. Pictures are on facebook, and I’ll upload a few here too!

The wide open bike road
Saturday night was great fun – we ordered pizza and got beer and hung out at the hostel, playing Jenga / card games in the common area of the hostel for hours. Let me just tell you – we were the entertainment for the evening for everyone in that hostel. I mean, you’re staying in a HOSTEL, which as I’ve said is definitely not the place to stay if you are looking for a quiet / relaxing break. The common room is there for a reason, plus we’re poor, so we just had a good time with jenga and our friends who took our idea and started their own games in the common room. Yay for hostels having loads of board games behind the desk!
Sunday was a lazy day, wandering around Galway, going to cafes and then heading back to Dublin. It was such a fantastic weekend and honestly, we could not have had more beautiful weather. Of all my places to go in Ireland, this was probably my favorite. Beautiful town, two wonderful site-seeing opportunities – a must-see if you come to ireland!
I know this entry is late, but hopefully tomorrow I’ll be writing about Killarney (last weekend). Tomorrow is my last day at work, and then Saturday at 6:30 am Abby and I leave for Scotland!! We have so much planned – trips to the Edinburgh (ghost tour! Edinburgh Castle!), Inverness (Loch Ness!), Latheron (population > 500 people … where the Clan Gunn museum is located, way up in the northern highlands), and Glasgow. In a week from today, I can’t believe I’ll be back in Vermont!! Excited to come home, but SO much to do in the next week!

Scary!

The beach